Blogger's Block

Having just returned from Sunday birria at Shambhala, my belly is full and my thirst is quenched. The morning is a glow. Life is good…….right up to the point that I sense my mind is void of any clue for this week’s blog. So what now? I react in the same manner any self-respecting male has done for centuries, I sit and ponder. I ponder my most recent insect bite; I ponder the water line on the rocks across the bay; I ponder Nikki’s belly when I rub it; I even ponder my belly. Then suddenly an errant thought descends into that vacuous intellect of mine------advance to the kitchen-----open the refrigerator----extract a singular Pacifico, plunk your rump on the couch and await inspiration. Alas, it works!  

We live at the top of a four story concrete building. Casa Azul is a spacious casita with an entry way, full kitchen, tiled bathroom, living/dining area and two large bedrooms. The north facing wall supports five foot tall windows across its entire span of twelve linear feet.  The vista reveals the entirety of the Playa side of the bahia. Every water taxi, panga, kayak, log, beach towel, reclining lounge, cavorting dog, ice chest or bare chest is observable. It creates a sixty square foot big screen. Diana and I (Memo) have been known to lose hours gazing or even gawking in absolute amazement.

As I write this, one of our neighbors, Alejandro is out testing a new wing with his motor-assisted, para-sailer. While the small motor spews noises akin to a Tim Allen enhanced food processor, the aerial acrobatics mitigate any irritation. He sways, ascends nearly vertically, kills the motor and pilots his craft over the next half hour around the bay. Visitors on the beach lust for such freedom; dogs pursue the shadow and bark at some perceived flying threat. Our pilot executes his return to the sandy beach, observers applaud; he smiles and responds to their polite inquiries.

Sunday is family day in Yelapa. The afternoon draws the various clans to the beach. Youth of all ages frolic in whatever surf is lapped up, over and around them. A collage of teenage boys immerges with boogie boards in tow. They while away the ensuing hours bonding, shouting, riding and thrashing in the swells which only rise in their sector. Shadows announce the arrival of evening, families re-group; the young males scan the horizon for one last set and the beach empties.  

Paradise demands engagement, embracing and total immersion. Only then do we understand and appreciate our place within it.

Mexican Food

There are few pleasures in life more gratifying than eating your way through Yelapa. Forget all you have ever eaten under the genre of Mexican Food. Local palate pleasing purveyances grant the diner an unbridled partaking of protected family recipes. The blend of a potent salsa, the nuances of a marinade, and the coalescence of tastes captured by a seasoned grill are all ingredients of everyday meals. It just never stops.

By all means visit and consume the reviewer comments on tripadvisor (link identified below) on all restaurants here in Yelapa.

 However since it is my blog, I elect to intervene with but a few comments on my favorite spots.   

Café Bahia

Located at the base of the town pier, Susan Pasko creates egg dishes for breakfast and healthy sandwiches for lunch. All ingredients are fresh to the point that the herbs and spices were growing in her garden that morning. Produce is treated with Microdyn and only purified water is used.  Her restaurant is a focal point for the local ex-pat community.

Pollo Bollo

Situated on the pathway off the main square which runs out to The Point, this entity is known for its substantial portions. While a major draw with visitors appears to be the Bar-B-Q half chicken, I recommend sampling the local fair. A personal favorite is the mixed fajitas. As is the Yelapa custom, all meats and foul are marinated before grilling. The nuanced flavors complimented with fresh onions, green peppers and tomatoes will linger on your visual and gastronomic palate until you return.

Shambhala

This petite jewel lies nestled above the wall across from the pre-school. The Vasquez family (Ray, Violeta, Alexa) and their assistant extraordinaire, Martina, consistently purvey the greatest meals in Yelapa. Each order is made individually which demands more time but the wait is mitigated by consuming the first bite. Mixed brochettes, bacon wrapped shrimp, arrachera steak and pollo catalina are but a few of the dozen dinner offerings.   With the return of the season, Ray opens for breakfast (coffee, smoothies, and eggs) and lunch (tacos, Martina’s enchiladas, and more) and dinner. This year will see the introduction of several vegetarian offerings. Ray is a master of libation creation and customer service, Violeta, his wife, and Martina support him with food preparation associated with a five star restaurant. If you are famished, try the plate-sized hamburger-seriously. It is the finest I have ever tasted and available in beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom versions. Should your stay overlap a Sunday morning, then a visit to Shambhala for birria/birria tacos is a must. Word of caution--go early (9:30 am) as this is a local ritual. The supply is typically exhausted by 11:30.

El Manguito

Located upriver, across the bridge; a right turn will take you past the elementary school. The restaurant will be on your right.  If you are traveling from Hotel Lagunita just follow your feet up the river path. This restaurant is an institution with visitors. The owners, Luis and Angelica Castillon, offer an extensive menu from fresh fish to traditional enchiladas and chile rellenos. In my opinion, their forte is shrimp offered in mango, coconut, papaya, garlic, or tequila sauce.

Commercial Break

Once you’ve begun to feast your way into, around and through Yelapa, you’ll experience a sudden craving for exercise and the out of doors. The latter can be easily achieved by looking out the window of your rented domicile. The former is achievable via your amigo Memo who will assist you with kayak rentals to cruises around the bay upon your arrival on the Playita. For those of you who are first timers to Yelapa, there’s my ever popular Romantic Sunset Kayak Cruise: this offers that special couple the chance to sit in a kayak on the beach for up to two hours and enjoy a cold beer, chips and salsa. A boom box is available upon request.   

"Thar she blows!"

Every Fall a nation of humpback whales settles into Banderas Bay. They feed, they cavort, they breach, and finally the females signal availability with thunderous  fin slapping on the surface of the water. It is one of many natural spectacles here in The Nature Channel (Yelapa). Rumor has it that the spiciness of Mexican krill inflames the giant mammalian libido.

 In anticipation of gaining the first sighting of their return, November 1^st of each year is unofficially designated as Ok to Start Sighting Whales Day. We crane our necks and strain our eyes for the telltale spouting which announces an arrival. Over the ensuing two weeks the majority of us simply experience sore necks and fatigued eyes.

Then, when you least expect it, something catches your attention. Allow me to digress for just a moment. Diana and I (Memo) were enjoying our morning cup of coffee while dutifully stationed in front of our massive picture window. Our pulses accelerated slightly as we watched one, then two and ultimately three separate pods of dolphins glide into the bay. They were here for one reason and it wasn’t to sun bathe. Virtual geysers of small fish sought airborne shelter only to descend into the awaiting mouths of ravenous hunters. This event continued for the next dozen or so minutes. Then, having filled their bellies, these denizens departed our little bay with Esther Williams’ grace and synchronicity. We shared a pleasant glance and I returned to the coffee carafe for my refill.

Half-way through the pouring process, I heard a loud “flap” rebounding around the walls of the bay. It meant only one thing. Initially two, and later an entire school, of adolescent manta rays had arrived. The noise is created by these black and white sea wings actually breaching into the air and then landing belly flop style. Two of these majestic creatures demonstrated their form of aerial acrobatics. It is always a hoot to watch. The school cruised the entire beach front as if to take a victory lap prior to departure. We collectively chortled.          

Nikki, our English Shepherd, signaled that it was her appointed time for attention and headed for the front door. She and I departed for our designated convenience break location perhaps fifty quick paces away. We had barely arrived when the familiar voice of Diana hollers “Memo there’s a whale in the bay.” What was I to do? Nikki satisfied her basic needs and we returned to Casa Azul. Diana was well past jubilation and approaching giddy. She recounted each detail of the approach; the doubting of what she saw; the gentle rolling and ultimately the fluted tail appearing straight up in the air signaling its descent. Clearly the dolphins and the manta rays had been the warm-up acts for what was to follow.

The West Coast stared into its morning commute. The East Coast gazed at a mid-morning cup of coffee. Diana and I sighed, smiled and kissed. It was a great day to be a Yelapan!  

  

Commercial Break: If frolicking with feeding dolphins (just keep your hands inside the kayak), paddling through leaping manta rays (wear your helmet) or attempting to re-board your kayak after having been tossed out by the wake of a breaching whale (life vest required) sounds attractive to you; then see Memo on the Playita. He’s your man!

GringoLandia

Having recently returned from nearly a month “al norte,” no doubt my readers are awaiting some profound compare and contrast essay. I must admit that upon my replanting into Yelapan soil, I too saw an opportunity ripe for sarcastic satire and poignant put down. Such will not be the case.

Place A is neither better nor worse than place B. It simply possesses its own litany of descriptors; nothing else. Now here is where the human element intervenes into the equation; I have the discretion to elect which set of descriptors are best suited for me. Both my wife and I, independently, spent decades in the “burbs” of Los Angeles as young, salaried, professionals with families. Our geography was determined by either the merging of the above descriptors or the employment demands of a spouse. Naiveté begat acceptance and complacency.

Two cosmic events unpinned those shackles: 1) the advent of cheap airfares and 2) HGTV’s introduction of weekly episodes of House Hunter’s International. Sprinkle liberally with the benefits of empty-nesting and financial security just around the next corner. The resulting molecular reaction was unstoppable. I must also add that by now Diana and I had found each other (what a difference a spouse makes). Each adventure into some unknown geography, whether domestic or international, gave rise to the question “Could we do this?” We ceased judging a site and sought instead to identify its resident descriptors.

In the past year, we have grown to love Yelapa. The oppressive heat and humidity have subsided; the village is all spruced up, and aromas flood even the tiniest of pedestrian corridors. It is a moment of intense pride for us knowing that we don’t have to go home at the end of the day. We are home.    

Continuing reminder: For that enhanced Yelapa experience remember Memo's Kayaks on the Playita. Experience a perspective of the village previously reserved for dolphins, whales, and pangueros. Mention this ad and receive free assistance during launching and return.