Tuesday, November 26, 2013

Yelapa Travel 101/102



Over the past year, I have infused various “travel tips” to allay your anxieties and render your trip to Yelapa enjoyable, rewarding, and worthy of repeating. Short of combing thru fifty postings, there is no single source for your quick reference. Allow me to address that literary deficiency forthwith.

First I assume: 1) your length of stay will span three to five days; 2) you will visit during the high season from mid-November thru mid-April; 3) average group size will be two to four people. Now if you are a family of eight staying from June to August, then stop reading and send me an email. 

Packing (per person)
3 T-shirt/tank tops
1 pair of shorts for three days, two pairs for five days
1 pair of sandals for walking, 1 pair of flip-flops for inside only
Brim hat, (minimum baseball cap), UVA/UVB block sunglasses
1 can bug spray (deet based), Sun block 35 UVA/UVB
1 small LED flashlight with spare batteries
Assorted underwear and personal toiletries
1 pair ear plugs
1 camera (iphone, android, digital-cam)

Credit/Debit Cards
If you wish to access your credit/debit cards while traveling in Mexico, alert the providers well in advance. Give them the dates of travel and when you plan to return. Less than a handful of merchants accept plastic in Yelapa, while they are accepted virtually everywhere in Puerto Vallarta. There are ATM (cajeras) machines on every block in PV.
 
Currency
Have a supply of Mexican pesos with you. Many stateside banks can assist you. Request your supply of pesos in advance of your trip. Their rates will be the best. There are no banks or ATM machines in Yelapa. Some merchants will accept US dollars, typically at a rate of $1=10 pesos. That makes the math easy but causes you to lose 20% or more of your purchasing power. Plan ahead, if you can forecast your needs for the trip, consider having those funds in your pocket upon arrival.    
     
Arrival: Puerto Vallarta International Airport
Your flight will likely arrive between 2:30pm and 4:30pm. If you are married and traveling as a family, you will fill out one Custom’s Declaration. BUT each traveler must have his own completed Visitor’s Visa. Retain the second half of this form. Put in inside your passport for retrieval! It is literally your ticket out of Mexico. Lose it and you will pay a fine and your departure will be delayed.  Families remain together and move forward as a group when the agent beckons you. If you are not married to your travel companion, then each needs a Custom’s Declaration. You must proceed separately past the Immigrations Officer. Hopefully, and this is a key point, you only have a carry-on sized tote and one additional item (laptop case, brief case, purse). You accelerate past baggage claim into the Custom’s Zone. Follow whatever instructions you are given as the physical layout changes frequently. IF you are asked to open luggage for inspection, do so courteously and silently. Speak only when asked a question. THE REST OF THE TIME, KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT! 

Depart the Custom’s area and briskly walk down the hall. Do not establish eye contact or initiate conversation with the folks in white pants and shirts. They are Time-Share Sharks. Once you clear the building, it is decision time. If you are two or less and have only your carry-on luggage, make a left turn; walk to the end of the airport building; cross over the foot bridge to the awaiting taxis. You just saved 300 pesos ($25 USD) Tell the driver you wish to go to Los Muertos Pier-ask the cost BEFORE getting into the vehicle. (It should be around 150 pesos + tip). There is a departing Yelapa Water Taxi at 4:30pm (ish) and then again at 6pm (ish). If you are more than two and/or have adequate luggage to weather the winter, exit the building. A cab supervisor will approach you. Tell him how many there are in your party, identify your luggage, he’ll take it from there. Identify your destination—Los Muertos Pier—ask the cost. Before departing the airport, the cab will pull over to a toll booth—you will pay 300 pesos airport departure fee, 500 pesos if you are in a van.

Arrival: Los Muertos Pier & Yelapa Water Taxi
As you exit your cab, two people will approach you. One is a little wiry man with a hand-truck. The second individual appears out of the Lagunita Hotel Office on your left. The former will take charge of your luggage, while the latter will sell you a water taxi ticket. DO NOT BUY A ROUND TRIP TICKET! That price will include a “handling fee” which you can avoid by paying the water taxi when your return. Remember to tip the gentleman who handled your luggage. Once on the water taxi, sit in the center and as far toward the rear as possible. This will give you a dryer, smoother ride. The late afternoon seas can be a bit angry. Consider ingesting a precautionary motion sickness tablet while at the airport. Average travel time to Yelapa, just under an hour. If you are part of large group or have multiple pieces of luggage, consider tipping the water taxi helper upon arrival in Yelapa.

Arrival: Yelapa Pueblo
If you are staying at Lagunita Hotel or in some other up-river lodging, then you will depart the taxi at the Lagunita Pier. If you are staying anywhere else, then depart at the town pier. Check with your inn keeper ahead of time. In many cases, they will meet you at the pier to escort you. There are several gentlemen on the pier with wheelbarrows. For a fee, they will transport your luggage to its destination. They can be trusted. They can also be “reserved” to assist you with your departure.

Once You Are Here
Allow the pace of the village to seep in. There are no subway/train/bus/airline schedules here. Consider removing your watch, leave the cell phone in a secure place and return to a moment in time which was uncluttered electronically. My personal mantra: when you are thirsty—drink; when you are hungry—eat; when you are tired--sleep. Just a thought. Embrace the concept of “Yelapa Time.” It has flourished favorably for centuries.

There are more than a dozen great restaurants, numerous taquerias, 2.5 beaches (.5 for Isabel’s Beach), a beautiful church, four local fishing charter/tour operators, two water falls, one major kayak rental operation (me—commercial plug), para-gliding, five markets, one laundry service, horse back riding, hiking, bird watching, butterfly watching, people watching, star gazing, live music and dancing. Or you can just settle back and allow a Mexico which you never knew existed to unfold before you. A word about TripAdvisor; do your research regarding dining, lodging and activity purveyors. This web site is extremely powerful in Yelapa. When you have a great experience, and you will have many, be sure to post your thoughts on TripAdvisor. It will be much appreciated.   

Local Culture
Yelapa is a casual and accepting place. Just a few basics bear mentioning. If you behaved in a law-abiding, reasonable manner in your home country, then please do so here. Public intoxication, drug use, loudness and profanity are unacceptable behaviors throughout the world. If you are headed to the beach but will be walking thru the village wear a t-shirt. Remove it once you reach the beach. Walking with an open alcohol container is considered an insult to the village. Shirts must be worn when entering the church; shorts are ok—no cell phones/food/beverages. If you happen to be traveling with your family pet, when you depart for a local restaurant, leave FiFi/Fido at the apartment. Neither the restaurant operator nor the patrons have a desire to spend their evening out with your pet. Once again, what would you do at home?  These are common sense norms. Thank you for your cooperation.  

Security
This is a common sense issue worldwide. Leave your documents, cash, and valuables in a secure place. Check with your innkeeper in advance to see if a safe is available in your casita or provided in a central location. Unless you are a professional photographer on assignment, consider bringing a less expensive water resistant camera to Yelapa. If you are bringing sophisticated electronics (e.g. laptop, camera, phone, etc.) Consider bringing desecant packets with you. Moisture and electronics do not mix well. Our average humidity is 68 %. An ounce of prevention----you know the rest, right? 

Limitations
Yelapa is a village defined by hilly topography, cobble stone streets, sand and water. Climbing is required to venture almost anywhere. There are no ramps. Individuals with mobility issues, respiratory or circulatory issues or whose general health/age renders them fragile should NOT travel to Yelapa. Please do not place your loved ones at risk.

Commercial Break
Damn, after enduring all of that, you and I need a break. How about an hour’s worth of Yelapa Kayak Rentals on the bay? I know it settles me down. Rates are 100 pesos/person/hour. New paddles and full foam seats are included with each rental. It is simply, and humbly, the best kayak experience in Yelapa. Check it out. I (Memo) am on the playita (little beach) under the giant fig tree. Mexican cell 322 146 5064, US dial 00 52 1 322 146 5064.  Happy Paddling. memo

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Busier Week



Lots happening in Yelapa. All of the restaurants are open. The foot traffic increases daily with various languages, body shapes and shades in abundance. That means there are even more interesting folks here yearning to tell their story, and genuinely curious about yours. Two such people are Peter and Ann who hail from near Bellingham, WA. They are lifelong world travelers whose roots reach across the big pond to the United Kingdom. Yelapa is an annual stop on their itinerary. Diana and I (Memo) were delighted to offer them assistance after a vicious water spirit attacked Ann’s phone, and Peter’s laptop recharger adopted siesta mode. I thought the message was pretty clear----they were not intended to depart tomorrow as originally scheduled.  They will return for wine this afternoon to check email alerting the “fam” that all is well. 

Two dolphins entered our bay yesterday. These were large, grey solitary adult animals that cruised for a half hour or so in search of just the right aquatic morsel.  Additionally, a young manta ray managed to pop up just next to a man on a stand-up paddle board. If the manta’s face mirrored anything close to the expression of the paddler, then each was surprised to see the other. The paddle boarder remained upright while the manta flopped back into the bay.

The wedding virus was in full epidemic swing this week. No less than four ceremonies took place within the past five days. An evening soiree on the main beach last night reached its zenith with the staggered release of perhaps a hundred aerial lanterns. I’m not sure as to their environmental impact but no doubt they were constructed from wild, not processed, rice paper. 

The last event of note was the annual celebration of Revolution Day. This is a national holiday in observance of the Mexican triumph over the dictator, Porfirio Diaz. In the morning, kinder through sixth graders parade across the main beach. The young boys are attired in white shirts, black pants and crisscross paper bandoleros across their chests. The young ladies are adorned in multi-colored skirts (faldas) rhythmically swaying as they proceed. Older children create acrobatic stunts. That evening the middle school and high school students perform folkloric dances while a few brave girls attempt to sing interpretive (that’s being polite) versions of Mexican standards. Homemade food compliments the festivities.

Commercial Break
Chances are if you read the blog, you are also a friend on FB. For those special few who aren’t, here’s what I did this week. A new FB page has been created for Yelapa Kayak Rentals. Check it out, “like” the page; share it with your friends. I will post yak related pics, news, etc. A new email account, yelapakayakrentals@gmail.com has also been established for inquiries, reservations and general chatter specific to kayak rentals. The temps are down, the humidity is dropping and the yaks are good to go. Just waiting on you. See you on the playita; happy paddling---Memo.

P.S. Remember to visit the blog, read it, share it, live it!

Saturday, November 16, 2013

A New Season



It was a busy week in Yelapa. A certain excitement is created when friends return. Such was the case this past Sunday as John/Tamara and their white Scotty, Chloe landed from Fairbanks, Alaska. We have already enjoyed two dinners together plus they slipped out onto the bay for an hour’s worth of kayaking. Welcome back!!!

An update on Ray’s Place (former operators of Shambhala); they are unofficially open Tuesday thru Saturday for dinner, Sunday for birria, closed Monday. Hours will be expanded in the near future to include breakfast and lunch. One of Ray’s enormous beef or chicken or Portobello hamburgers pared with the cold beverage of choice is a must for any mid-day traveler passing this portal to gastronomique excellence. Bear in mind that each entre and/or libation is individually crafted. It is going to take longer, but, oh, so worth the wait. Last night they were packed. Tip: leave your watch and cell phone in a secure spot in your palapa. Grant yourself the opportunity to absorb the aroma of your selection before it reaches your table. You’re on Yelapa time now. 

At 6 pm last evening, a light mist commenced. Over the ensuing few hours, its intensity escalated. As if to herald the new day, at mid-night we were engulfed in a moderate rain shower. This event proceeded without interruption for twelve hours. Somewhere inside that timeline, in typical Yelapan fashion, electrical power ceased. As of this writing, on battery power, there is a high cloud ceiling, the bay is calm but coffee colored from river silt and off in the distance, a generator runs. Villagers and visitors alike switch to rainy day schedule---what’s the choice?

Wednesday evening brought the first hump-back whale sighting of the season. The female spent a half hour outside our bay. The display reached its zenith as she rolled to repeatedly slap the surface with an enormous side fin. The entire village was abuzz. Ah, the simple life.

Kayak Rentals      

The Playita office continues to take shape. While my quest for a battery operated blender persists, all other equipment is fully operational. Fleet upgrades continue and rates are simplified and reduced.  With the exception of multi-day engagements, kayaks are available for 100 pesos/person/hour regardless of whether the kayak is a single or double. Back supporting seats are included. I offer the finest kayaking experience in Yelapa. That’s a fact! As always—happy paddling. memo    

Friday, November 8, 2013

Renewal



Word association-- “renewal?” Magazine subscription, pharmacy prescription, auto registration???  Ask a Yelapan the same question and they will tell you about the renewal of the jungle following the summer seasonal rains; the renewal of the returning sea animals as first the tuna, then the manta ray and ultimately the hump backs renew the Bay of Banderas. Lastly, they will identify their physical renewal as temperatures and humidity recede from the nineties bracket and settle comfortably into the seventies. I embrace the latter associations.

Those of you who follow the blog know that November ushers in the high-season. Restaurants fine tune their menus, lodge keepers apply fresh paint on anything that doesn’t move faster than their brush, water taxi drivers raise their rates slightly to offset summer losses and even I (memo) am hard at work spiffing my office on the playita and my kayaks. Arguably, all these are additional forms of renewal.

For those of you recently joining this blog, welcome! Let me suggest that you visit my postings of a year ago as far as packing and travel tips. Many of you will fantasize about a Yelapa visit, some might investigate via Trip Advisor, while a dynamic handful of you might actually undertake the trek. For all of you, a friendly smile awaits you on the playita.

Travel Note
Yelapa is a garden paradise populated with warm and friendly folks. Eye contact and a sincere “hola” will introduce you to anyone. While our village is inviting to all, it must be said that there are a few who should not consider the trip. Allow me to explain. Yelapa is a village of cobblestone paths and hills. The elderly should not be placed at risk either by their use of the water taxi or by their limited endurance. If you are traveling with older parents, please prioritize their safety. Their travel experience is better served by remaining in Puerto Vallarta. Additionally, any one with respiratory, circulatory and/or walking issues should likewise remain in PV. Enough said.

Kayak News
Great news!!! Kayak rental fees are down, due primarily to the stabilization of petrol prices. I know, what does petrol have to do with kayaks, work with me. New rental rates will be $100 pesos/per person/hour. How’s that for simple? My existing fleet consists of four singles and two tandems. Got a bunch of friends? Call me in advance to insure that the equipment you want will be available. My cell # 322 146 5064 or from a US cell it would be 011 52 1 322 146 5064 or ask your innkeeper to contact me directly.  Happy Paddling, memo.

Restaurant News
Ray, Violeta and Alexa, formerly at Shambhala, are opening their own restaurant—Ray’s Place. It will be located on the main path just past the church as you journey towards the bridge. Their superior culinary offerings and hand crafted libations will be available for your enjoyment soon. I’ll keep you all posted.