Best of 2013

Last night was the first in four without rain. The paths are clinical in their appearance. Each cobblestone appears to be tooth brushed clean. Incoming sea swells create a seductive rhythm which flows all the way to the lap, lap, lapping on the beach. Only the odd criss-crossing of a panga alters my tranquility. AND THEN some S-O-B downstairs activates a Tim Allen grade hammer drill and proceeds to set off seismic measuring devices from Puerto Vallarta to Manzanillo. I grab my keys and manage to open the door before flying through it. I scream some sort of apology to Nikki.

Its mid-morning on a Sunday. The workman responsible for the earlier disruption is spied. I politely inquire as to the status on his project. He signals its completion. Aaah, here I am fattened, sassied and ready to write. Let us see where this goes. In light of a mere three calendar days remaining until the commencement of 2014, I can slide this year’s Memo’s Favorite list in just in time. Here we go:

Memo’s Favorites for 2013

General

Best Yelapa FaceBook information                Yelapa Visitors

Best Water Taxi/Driver                                La Guerra/Neto

Best local attraction                                     Town Waterfall

Restaurants

Best Waterfront Restaurant                          Café Bahia

Best Taqueria (Monday-Pozole)                Ramona’s                          

Best Riverside Restaurant Experience           El Manguito

Best Restaurant Overall (food/drinks)           Ray’s Place

Services

Best Market (based on price/selection)            Leticia's
Best Excursion Guide (fishing, Marietas, etc.)  MiraMar Excursions

Best Kayak Rental (playita-little beach)        Yelapa Kayak Rentals

Best Electronic Bargain                                 Prepaid Cell-TelCel

While the categories are massaged slightly, last year’s players remain well entrenched. The FaceBook site is new, thanks to Susan Pasko, and offers daily information to the Yelapa traveler as to restaurants and general events. The Best Water Taxi/Driver recognizes the performance of one, among many, superb captains. Ray’s Place is the new location for Ray, Violeta and Alexa formerly at Shambhala; MiraMar Excursions is a name change from Okley Excursions with Fernando Garcia; lastly, Yelapa Kayak Rentals is now the brand of what was Memo’s Kayaks. You’ll figure it out. My selections are purely subjective; I urge the potential Yelapa traveler to visit TripAdvisor.com for more objective assessments. If you have questions, contact me via this blog. All of us wish your visit to be tranquil, stress free and worth repeating with those you love.

I have deliberately not addressed lodging. That decision is based upon a variety of parameters unique to each traveler. Once again, I urge that you visit TripAdvisor. Yelapa offers something for every pocket book. Do your research. At this point, it might be a great idea to also re-visit an earlier blog posting "Travel Tips 101/102.” Pay particular attention to the discussion regarding those with travel limitations.

Commercial Break

This has been a challenging week to yakers in Yelapa. Rains, tidal swings, and intermediate level afternoon swells have persisted. Check with me, Memo, before scheduling your outing. Local cell number 322 146 5064 or ask your innkeeper to give me a call. Happy paddling. memo 

Beef Stew Extraordinaire (Birria)

Last night the rains presented with sufficient force to require that I depart my sleeping platform and shut the bedroom, living room and bathroom windows. I return to my chamber, slide under the covers and endeavor to rejoin the Sleep Express from which I was ejected earlier. At 7:30 a.m. five electronic beeps signal the readiness of my carafe of coffee. A moist nose signals Nikki’s readiness for breakfast and a break. The realization is reaffirmed that I am not, and probably have not been for an extended period, in control of my own destiny. It is Sunday; I shalt not dwell.

I tend to Nikki’s needs and fill a mug with brown, steaming liquid. The cup and contents join me as I ease into a chair. The vista before me is spectacular; as if each leaf in the jungle is wiped fresh, all roofs are swept and polished and every boulder glistens free from accumulated dust. The bay reflects an emerald green imparted by the skies which overhang. It is a jaw dropping morning.   

   

As my return readers understand, Sunday means birria at Ray’s Place. For those of you not familiar with this tradition, please refer to an earlier blog entry “Rituals” posted on 10/21/12. While this event was addressed at his prior location, it is a ritual which has happily followed him. I arrive this morning perhaps fifteen minutes later than usual. The restaurant is packed. Out of the thirty or so Corona chairs which await the traveler, not one is empty, not one! I walk inside, same situation exists; I spy an empty stool at the end of the bar. It is not intended for long term occupancy; I nod to Ray and he grants his approval. My beverage of choice, bloody Maria, slides within my reach.

The visual which unfolds before me is Yelapa at its best. Ray and Yuko, the waiters, continuously dart from group to group retrieving drink and birria orders. Martina, Caro and Alexa flash through the rooms delivering to each table the required condiments (salt, lime, chopped onion and cilantro, salsa verde and salsa roja). Their return trips bear empty plates, cups and beverage bottles. Violeta, the queen of the kitchen is in absolute control. When the three ladies return to their ready stations, Violeta pivots to issue a flurry of hand signals, all which appear to have meaning, and off fly the three servers again. Ray and Yuko continuously crisscross paths with beverage refills, bowls and plates laden with precious birria. It is a symphony of organized chaos.

There is yet another quiet, but observable, dynamic in process. I have touched briefly on the fact that husbands and wives do not typically eat together. On Sunday morning, many of the menfolk are either out fishing or perhaps are unable to venture out at the required hour. There are certain two-legged sharks who capitalize on such situations. They smile and chat with the women, pinch little girls’ cheeks, and even avail themselves to an empty chair for closer engagement. Their smiles are never ending, their laughs are recognizable and collectively they are convinced of the necessary service they provide, or at least offer. 

   

There is a brief break in the activity level. At least five people are heard to make audible sighs. The event ends for me as it began: a nod to Ray. With a belly full of sustenance and the warmth of yet another human experience, I return to share my Yelapa.

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I have just learned that a good friend and great human being, Francisco Brindis Samos (Pancho) died last night in Puerto Vallarta. Apparently, he experienced a spike in his blood pressure which ruptured or aggravated an existing aneurism in his brain. He gave selflessly to all, volunteered time and his dental skills to the village of Pizota. He established a much needed pharmacy here in Yelapa so that those who could not travel to Vallarta could have necessary medication. He was 53 years of age. Dianne, Nikki and I will miss him. RIP Amigo.

Out to Sea

I grew up the product of a single parent--mother. Experiencing “guy time” was simply not an event on my horizon. This activity did not happen until I found myself twenty-two plus years ago marrying into and being accepted by my wife’s family—the Guerrier Clan. Since then my father-in-law, various brothers-in-law and I have enjoyed countless conversations. Some were longer than others; some were more one-sided than others but meaningful exchanges non-the-less.

Since moving to Yelapa, I find that the majority of my friends are men. This morning I participated in an extended period of “guy time.” Allow me to explain. My great buddy, Fernando, invited me to join him, his brother Chopo and his father Enrique on a morning fishing jaunt. All of these people are well known to me. We have shared this activity perhaps a hand full of times. It is always a treat to do so, generally because of the diverse personalities onboard. 

Let us approach this subject chronologically. Enrique at age eighty has spent his entire life in Yelapa as did his father before him. He comes from a family of eight siblings all of whom went on to have similar sized families of their own. Fernando, now approaching forty, is a much admired businessman here in Yelapa. He and his wife operate MiraMar Yelapa rental properties and Fernando is the owner of MiraMar Excursions, a licensed fishing and tour operator. He is revered throughout the community.  Lastly, there is Chopo who recently turned thirty-two, the youngest of the siblings.

Yelapans pay great homage to their elderly. Enrique is known to all the villagers and is respected. Most greet him with the use of the polite title: “Don Enrique.” He understands a goodly amount of English and is able to verbalize the basics. He is a cancer survivor who now finds his age to be limiting his mobility. He walks short distances with a cane in each hand or with the use of crutches. Despite all this, I have never seen this man without a full face smile and a host of positive comments about life in general. His humor is dry and punctuated with a sparkle resident in each eye. He is disarming and a joy to engage.  

    

We will skip my profile for the moment, as most of you formed your own assessment years ago. Fernando is a moderately serious man, focused on the given task at hand, a talented storyteller. He is a compendium of oral history passed to him by his grandfather, father and now appended with his own experiences. He is a life-long fisherman and capable captain, not only of his boat, the Okley, but metaphorically of his greater family. I count myself honored that we refer to each other as “hermano” or brother.  

Ah, and then there is Chopo. Despite his rugged muscular physique and manly appearance, Chopo houses the heart and soul of a five year old. He is a gifted clown and entertainer who invariably plants himself into the center of a collection of ladies and works his magic. We’ll just leave it at that. His laugh is infectious and despite a voice which sounds vaguely like a skill saw, he frequently breaks into song. 

For illustrative purposes, picture the four of us sitting around a poker table. The seating chart today is a tad different in that Enrique and I sit at the rear of the boat, I tend a salt water fishing rig, while Enrique manipulates the locally preferred hand line. Fernando moves gracefully about the boat, independent of the angle of the floor beneath him. He checks lines and lures, then settles to engage in warm conversation with his father. 

And then there’s Chopo. He is steering the boat to maintain a safe distance from the rocky coastline. This activity, upon which all of our lives depend, still allows him time to rhythmically beat on the steering wheel, hum loudly and then break into a barely recognizable version of Mario Lanza’s “Volare.” Ultimately, he stands at the wheel stomping out some folkloric beat intended to divert attention from his vocal delivery; it does not work. The three oldies: Enrique, I and Fernando utter something about pinchy Chopo and laugh.    

  

During the morning, we catch three fish which Enrique takes home to grill. We laugh, chide each other, and with Chopo’s modeling, shed a century and a half of accumulated years to return to the carefree times of four-five year old boys. It was quality “guy time.” 

Commercial Break

Yelapa Kayak Rentals right on the price and right on the Playita (little beach). The bay should return to its usual calm for the next two weeks. Get into a kayak and immerse yourself in Yelapa. Call to check equipment availability. My Yelapan cell is 322 146 5064. Happy paddling--memo

Marital Bliss

Casa Azul (our home) sits atop two levels of a structure occupied by the senior members of one of the main families in Yelapa. Everyone who peers past their open door at street level, marvels at the family’s view of the bay. Our casita shares a similar view as seen through the run of continuous windows on the bay side. The view is the focus of our dwelling. 

In the village of Yelapa, each resident is responsible for sweeping and tending the path in front of their dwelling. Each morning parents, grandparents and even children on the weekend, sweep the cobblestone path and remove litter. One interesting piece of broom trivia: the villagers use the broom more as an instrument to push the debris than to pull it forward as those of us from the States do. As a results, the plastic bristles immediately assume the shape of a tangled mop. Each family possesses a commercial strength pooper-scooper to employ as required. They are available in all the markets.

Back to my downstairs neighbors; the patriarch is in his mid to late 80s, while his young bride approaches her mid-70s. Nikki and I depart for her morning convenience break around 7:45 a.m. Without fail, the senior chap is already in place push sweeping the leaves and debris which dropped the prior day. Twice per week his wife joins him as she sweeps her flower garden. This is perhaps a second bit of broom trivia: in Yelapa people sweep the dirt for the same reason they sweep the path---to remove the debris. Now here’s where this aged matrimonial ritual becomes amusing. If the gentleman is the first one on the scene, then he will have already swept a swath of the path. His wife ascends to the flower bed level, a full three feet or so above the path and begins crafting clouds of dirt, branches, leaves and on occasion the odd rotting mango down onto the path. She becomes so immersed in her endeavor that she fails to observe her husband working ahead of her. Despite the retention of most aspects of his physical mobility, it is abundantly clear that the bulk of his hearing departed some time ago. 

At the moment he completes his required swath of the path, he rotates to see his wife, activating huge clouds of dirt and debris over the entire length of path he has just tended. The look on his face speaks volumes---it has to be an ancient version of “WTF?” The verbal exchange which follows escapes my comprehension entirely. I can only guess what must be transpiring. He sets the broom against the wall, marking his spot for commencing the return trip the following morning. Shaking his head as he shuffles, he vanishes inside. A futbol game becomes audible. She finishes sweeping, or should it be brooming, the flower bed up to the exact site of her husband’s abandoned broom. She descends to the path, looks back and shakes her head. The debris will remain until her partner of nearly sixty years resumes his task the following morning.

    

Commercial Break

The seas continue to present challenges this week. Keep in mind, that for your safety, I reserve the right to cancel or re-schedule your Kayak adventure. Your safety and that of my equipment are the priority. Your understanding and cooperation are appreciated. Remember to check out the facebook page Yelapa Kayak Rentals. Contact phone number is at the top of the page. Happy Paddling----memo

Sweet Sunday

Today is Sunday, right? That means birria at Ray’s Place, right? Not wearing a watch or having a calendar in the home can spawn self-doubt. Whew!!! Just returned and it was fabulous as always. Chatted with my buddies, Fernando, Pahuelas and Nacho; received my Sunday hug from Alexa; all this while greeting those who strolled the adjoining pathway. This is my favorite day of the week.

Unlike couples from the North, Mexican men and women rarely dine out together. One might default to the thought that the men are “out” while the women are caring for the children. This is not necessarily the case, as fathers are frequently seen dining with one or more of their children. Groups of men are equally animated, albeit a bit more profane, than their female counterparts. The former tend to shout and laugh loudly, while the latter maintain a medium pitched drone punctuated by the occasional high pitched exclamation. Both groups enjoy themselves only to disband independently.

There was a plethora of pueblo improvement projects in evidence this morning. I tallied no less than three major painting works in process. Two of these involved the white washing of tall, lengthy block walls along the main path, while the third was a complete exterior paint makeover for the water purification plant. Our little village is looking good.

For those of you who chose to use last week’s posting Travel Tips 101/102 as your Yelapa primer, you may be interested to know that I have added a paragraph on Security as well as some comments on traveling with expensive electronic devices. There is one sensitive topic which I have heretofore avoided----geckos. These little lizard-like animals are perfectly harmless and quite beneficial in a dwelling. They are more often than not, nocturnal and feast on the small insects which share your abode. They are extremely territorial. An owner is considered abundantly fortunate if she has one of these as a welcomed tenant in each room. It is entirely possible that you may never be aware of their presence other than to discover a few tiny brown sausages on your counter in the morning. Those of us who live in close proximity to rental lodging in Yelapa are periodically awakened by shrill feminine squeals. Now these are not the squeals which punctuate the peak of satisfaction of an evening to remember. They are instead infused with raw terror. And the cause of this ear-piercing break in the existent tranquility?  The harmless, diminutive gecko. Please, do not seek to catch or remove your tiny guest as their bodies are soft and fragile. Simply allow them to depart on their own. Return your head to the pillow, close your eyes and smile in awareness that nameless neighbors on both sides of you know exactly what just occurred.     

In appreciation

This week I was treated to a tour of Casa de Los Suenos by its proprietress, Jesse Rose Roberts. The property represents the quintessential Yelapa. With a history dating back to the 1960s, the units reflect meticulous caretaking and offer the visitor a uniquely Yelapan experience. The large common area invites new friends to become old ones. Thank you Jesse Rose.

Commercial Break

Right on the price, right under the giant fig tree on the playita (little beach). Best equipment in town, your comfort and security are my only priority. Rates are 100 pesos/ per person/ per hour. Check out and “Like” the dedicated FB page Yelapa Kayak Rentals. Call to check availability, local cell # 322 146 5064 or simply ask your innkeeper to contact me. Happy Paddling--memo  

Full Swing

Forget a gradual transition from few visitors to many. This week our little village suddenly faced the latter. Increased traffic appeared driven by a singular event. Yelapa is a frequent spot for destination weddings. Packages are available through Hotel Lagunita, while more adventurous types build the event on their own from a far or with the help of a local contact. 

This past week, the hotel served as the focal point for a one hundred fifty person wedding party. That lodging requirement extends well beyond their capability, meaning that the participants were sprinkled throughout the village. This was great news to the town’s restaurants as people tend to eat close to where they stay. Over the weekend, all the major restaurants were filled with wedding revelers. To their credit, they were friendly, polite and a welcomed addition to our local economy. The ceremony occurred at dusk on Friday. A team of bridesmaids moved forward en masse like an ooze of pink molasses. The groom in full coat & tails punctuated the pinnacle of contrast with the barefoot, shirtless local kids watching from the nearby bushes. And lastly the centerpiece of the entire performance-----the bride proceeded across a path of newly cut fronds, this picturesque snow goddess glided forward only to disappear within the awaiting pink ooze. 

After what seemed like the briefest of moments, there was a cheer, several photo flashes and that was it. The group retired to the buffet area not to be heard the remainder of the evening. Now this is way weird, since Plan A wedding package includes three bursts of fireworks at midnight and Plan B expands that to five. Locals are awakened by these booms and bursts which punctuate the night sky. From then on it’s a restless few hours of sleep as the festivities push on until 3 a.m. (ish). To our great surprise neither bursts, booms nor partying disturbed our sleep. There was simply no nocturnal disturbance. 

Fall weather has descended up Yelapa. Day-time temperatures reach the mid-80s and require nothing more than an oscillating fan on low to maintain a pleasant inside environment. Sleep time invites the accompaniment of a light polar fleece coverlet and even a closed window. Remarkable!

In addition to the departure of the wedding entourage, there are several other significant exits this week as well. Tamara/John and their dog, Chloe, are returning to their home in Fairbanks, AK.  It was a busy trip for them: leasing an apartment for the next several years, dealing with the logistics of phone, power, furniture and then seeking counseling for Chloe’s obsession with pursuing geckos. Next, Kendra’s parents, John and Becky, will be heading to their native Kansas after enjoying Thanksgiving with Fernando, Kendra and grand-daughter, Kayden. Lastly, my precious Diana will depart Friday for San Diego to resume her full time duties as nanny-granny for Reese. Her daughter, Katherine, returns to work mid-December.

Nikki and I will convene soon to plot our daily routines: mine to include guitar practice, stationary biking, kayaking, kayak rentals, siesta taking, and the “occasional” dinner at Ray’s Place. Nikki’s day will be driven by breakfast, walk in the jungle, mid-morning nap, mid-afternoon nap, dinner, walk in the jungle, after dinner nap, and then sleeping all night. Our lives will be less rich and more solitary. New friends, along with the return of old, will add variety to our moments in paradise. 

Commercial Break

To those of you who “Liked” the new Facebook page Yelapa Kayak Rentals, I add my sincere appreciation. To those who haven’t, give it a thought. The last three days have brought significant tidal swings to our little bay. While launchings have been delayed until late morning, there remains a four plus hour window for pleasant yaking. This is a tidal cycle we experience every fourteen days although the swing from low to hi has been particularly dramatic.  Happy Paddling, memo